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February 9th, 2002, 11:06 PM
#1
Inactive Member
I just got back from getting an oil change, the guy said that both of my outer CV boots are starting to seperate. They are only 44bucks a side for the kit. (boot, grease ect). My question is, would i be able to do this myself? or is it better to pay the mechanic $150 in labor to do it for me??
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| |JEFF| |
NEW: 17" TSW Fury Rims
Team: Decepticon Racing
1990 Civic Hatchback Si (Black)
http://members.cardomain.com/90civicrider
http://members.shaw.ca/c90civicrider
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February 9th, 2002, 11:52 PM
#2
Inactive Member
wow difficult to answere...
it depends on your skills/tools
it is not a hard thing to do but
u have to seperate the ball joint
and take apart the outer joint....
it takes a bit of work...
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February 10th, 2002, 12:19 AM
#3
Inactive Member
I just got done fixing my right outer boot. i bought this kit and all I had to do was cut off the old boot, clean the joint and then wrap and bolt the new boot on. the hard part was using the clamps that came with the kit.
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February 10th, 2002, 12:39 AM
#4
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February 10th, 2002, 12:58 AM
#5
Inactive Member
Jeff,
It sounds like Dallas_FI used the wrap around bolt type kit which I wouldn't recommend as a permanent replacement, but in the right instance they fit the bill quite nicely. I put them on my 1G Civic once but the axle already had 100K+ miles on it and I was too cheap at the time to pay a mechanic.
IMO - the best solution is to get a remanufactured axle at a local parts store. Most charge $65 - 85 (US) after core exchange. I recently replaced my GF's left axle in her Corolla and it was $76. That gives you the whole axle, a fresh boot, and a rebuilt CV joint. If ANY dirt or water or salt, road grime has gotten in your CV joint thru those cracked boots, the CV joint is already ruined and a new boot will only delay its failure. I gave up on re-booting CV joints a long time ago. If you can't do it yourself, you may need to pay someone to do it for you, which obviously will cost more, however, I think based on your other experiences and stories on this board, you should be able to handle it. A Chilton's or Haynes manual has enough info in it to successfully perform this repair.
In summary - get a remanufactured axle and try it yourself 
One add'l note (again from experience
) - make sure your "new" axle comes with it's own spindle nut...the old nut from the dead axle isn't always an exact match 
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-Shawn
91 DX 4-door
AEM CAI & other mods which only add weight 
4-doors kick butt & I am patiently waiting for 91zc to pull that ZC!! I hope it is not fried!! Oh well..i did say I was willing to rebuild in my old sig didn't I? I guess here is my chance
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February 10th, 2002, 05:47 AM
#6
Inactive Member
Well the end of this summer/beginning of winter i planned on swapping a B16 into my car.. All depends on cash flow. But, i am pretty sure the boots wont make it that far.
the price was $240 (canadian$)for both boots and labor..
thats pretty good i think. So i might just pay the dealership to do it for me. Less of a hastle.
They said the boots still havent broke, so i'm guessing the CV joint is still good, and the boot will solve the problem.
I might have to get a load from my good ol' dad 
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| |JEFF| |
NEW: 17" TSW Fury Rims
Team: Decepticon Racing
1990 Civic Hatchback Si (Black)
http://members.cardomain.com/90civicrider
http://members.shaw.ca/c90civicrider
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